Kent St John 0. The thick air stirred a bit under my netting, the sounds of jungle echoing through the grounds of the Karawari Lodge on the Sepik River in Papua New Guinea. You are just starting out.

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Captured on a small cine-camera as it plays across the ranks of 17 approaching cannibal war canoes, the image is fleeting but unmistakable. Among the massed ranks of dark-skinned headhunter tribesmen heading around the bend of a New Guinea river is a naked and bearded white-skinned man, his face partly covered in war paint as he paddles furiously. The appearance of a white face among a throng of Papuan cannibals would be astonishing at the best of times.
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